Modhera Sun Temple
The Sun Temple (1026 AD) at Modhera in Gujarat, is a temple dedicated to the Hindu Sun-God, Surya. Sun temple today is a well maintained site and a popular visit enroute for all travellers. There is a stepwell within a temple complex and Sun temple is characterised by erotic carvings.
Founded way back in the 11th century by King Bhimdev I of the Solanki dynasty, Sun temple is placed on a hillock in Modhera, around 106 km north-westwards of Ahmedabad. One of the most beautiful Hindu temples in Gujarat, it is built in such a way that the sun shines on the image of Surya chakra, from sunrise to sunset. The main hall and the shrine are supported by beautifully-carved pillars with sculptures of gods and demons.
Located on the banks of Pushpavati River, the temple is dedicated to Sun Goa. Its interior hall has 12 niches that represent the monthly manifestations of the God. One of the few Sun temples in India, this temple complex is divided into three parts- Surya Kund, Sabha Mandap and Guda Mandap. Do not miss visiting this step-wells in the Sun temple of Modhera. The complex also has temples dedicated to Lord Vishnu, Lord Ganesha, Lord Shiva and Sitala Mata.
History Of Modhera Sun Temple :-
According to the Skanda Purana and Brahma Purana, the areas near Modhera were known during ancient days as Dharmaranya. These Puranas mention that after defeating Ravana, Lord Rama asked Muni Vasistha to show him a place of pilgrimage where he could go and purify himself from the sin of 'Brahma-hatya' (the sin of killing a Brahmin). Muni Vasistha showed him a Dharmaranya, which was near the modern town of Modhera. In the Dharmaranya, he settled at a village Modherak and performed a yagna there. Thereafter he established a village and named it Sitapur. This village is about 8 km from Becharaji Modherak village and it subsequently came to be known as Modhera.
The Sun Temple was built by Raja Bhimdev I of Solanki lineage (who were believed to be Suryavanshis) in AD 1026. The temple bears some resemblance to the more renowned Sun Temple of Konark, which it predates by some 200 years. Like the temple at Konark, it was so designed that the first rays of the sun fell on the image of Surya, the Sun God, at the time equinoxes. The temple is partially in ruins, but despite the passage of time, it continues to reveal the architectural genius, the sculptor's virtuosity, and, of course, the devotional fervor of the times.
The Modhera Sun Temple:-
Sun TempleThe Modhera sun temple is situated on the bank of the river Pushpavati, 30 kms from Mehesana and 125 kms from Ahmadabad in northern Gujarat. This is an ancient township, traceable to the Puranic age, when it was known as Dharmaranya. It is believed that Lord Rama performed here a yajna (sacrifice) to purify himself of the sin of having killed a Brahmin - Ravana, the king of Lanka. Rama built "Modherak" which subsequently came to be called "Modhera". It became a pilgrimage centre for hordes of people who thronged to the place to pay homage to Surya.
The Modhera temple is the creation of the Solanki era in Gujarat when it was ruled by Bhima-I in 1026-27. This was the time when Somnath and the adjoining area was plundered by Mahmud Ghazni and reeled under the effects of his invasion. The Solankis, however, regained much of their lost power and splendour. Anahilvad Patan, the Solanki capital, was restored to glory. Royalty and traders jointly contributed to build grand temples.
The first view of the sun temple is breathtaking, with the pillared portico of the sabhamandap reflected in the massive tank. The weathered golden brown stone of the edifice has an overpowering grandeur. The temple follows the contemporary stylistic traditions, incorporating twin compartments - a shrine with the cells housing the presiding deity and the mandapam or sabhamandap (assembly hall). A narrow passage connects the two structures. The lower portion of both structures is ornamented with horizontal bands of sculptural decoration. The mandovara (upper wall portion) is covered with panels of large images of deities from the Hindu pantheon, placed in their carved niches and tabernacles. The vimana or the spire has horizontal bands of figurative and geometrical designs, all rising to the apex of the pyramid, and recreating in stone the mythological Mount Meru - abode of gods. Urusrimgas, miniature replicas of the shrine, cling to the central spire. Although the spires over the cells and sabhamandap were destroyed by the invaders and have survived only in the core pyramidal structure, an idea of their form can be had from the spires of the small temples built on terraces of the steps over the tank.
The temple interior is peristylar and consists of superbly carved pillars. Covered with lavish sculptural decoration, these pillars are examples of the perfect craftsmanship of the Solanki artisan. These pillars are geometrically arranged to create an octagonal space at the centre of the hall used quite frequently for ritualistic dance performances.
The sabhamandap is a small independent structure. The four entrances have ornamental toranas (decorative hangings over the entrance) which have a marvellous quality of intricate and precision craftsmanship. At the centre of the hall is the walnut shaped ceiling, with its numerous folds of floral girdles, upheld by two aisles of pillars arranged on diagonals of the square plan. Even at its dimly lit height, the astounding splendour of stonecraft shines brightly. It is a visual delight to stand under the 23 feet high ceiling.
The structure containing the sanctum is modest in size but a rare gem of architectural and sculptural decoration. At one time, the image of the Sun, cast in gold, was placed at the centre of the sanctum to receive the first rays of the sun. The invaders removed the image for its gold and left the sanctum walls bereft of any decoration - a mere empty jewel casket. The structure is oblong in shape, 80 feet by 50 feet, with a single entrance over which the artisans have worked like jewellers. The slender columns at the porch are ingeniously crafted. On the exterior walls are the large panels of gods and goddesses, celestial maidens, nymphs and dancers, and of course impressive images of Surya riding his chariot across the heavens. Very discreetly, the profuse erotic sculptural panels have been placed at inconspicuous angles to avoid unnecessary attention.
The entire structural complex at Modhera is aligned to the east, to the rising sun. Kama Kunda, the water tank, meant for ritualistic ablution before offering worship, is one of the most perfectly designed structures of its kind in the country. A regular well-patterned lateral formation of stone steps descends upto the bottom of the tank. The geometrical configuration of steps allows a direct or diagonal descent from all the four sides. On the small terraces on the steps are small temples with niches housing Vaishnavite deities. The dramatic play of light and shade on these steps creates a fascinating impact. The stepped water tank at Modhera ruined columns without their splendid superstructure, which leads into the sabhamandap. These columns, like every other inch of space on the temple structure, are loaded with sculptural decoration of an extraordinary beauty. Thus, the Modhera sun temple is a glorious example of Gujarat's rich cultural heritage.
Different Parts Of Temple:-
The temple site at Modhera consists of three distinct units: the Sun Temple, the Nrityamandapa, and the 'Suryakunda'. Sculptures of noteworthy iconography are found all over the temple. The almost life-size figures in the panels belong to three groups of deities, namely the 'Adityas', the 'lokpalas' and the 'devis'.
The twelve 'adityas' are arranged around the western part of the cellar. They stand in 'Samabhanga' position, upon a pedestal of seven horses, denoting the seven colours that emanate from the sun. Between the boot-tips of the deities is the charioteer, Aruha. An interesting figure is an iconograph with three heads, three arms and three legs.
Sun Temple in Modhera - GujaratIn other niches and corners are figures of Shiva and Vishnu, in various forms. The outer walls of both the columnar hall and the inner shrine, are exquisitely carved with bands of sculptures; depicting iconographic forms of various deities, celestial beauties, dancing figures, rows of elephants, and processions of people in different attitudes, etc. The assembly hall has exquisitely carved pillars.
Dedication of Modhera Sun temple to Sun God
The Sun Temple is divided into three parts namely Surya Kund, Sabha Mandap and Guda Mandap
Located on tropic of cancer, a place where earth stops its north movement and Sun God was worshiped with every rise.
Sabha Mandap standing on 52 pillars, depicting the 52 weeks in an year.
Depiction of Sun, one of the panchbhuta, and its unity with other 4 elements ( Air, Water, Earth & Space) in the architecture.
On equinoxes, with the perfect planning and precision of the architecture, sun rays enter the main sanctum . In those days light used to further reflect to other idols from the correctly placed diamond on the head of Sun God.
The representation of walls with 12 different facets of each month in Guda Mandap.
Sabha Mandap:-
It is a huge hall, where once religious meetings used to be held. It is open on all sides and contains around 52 pillars, all of them being intricately carved. The carvings depict scenes from the Hindu epics of Ramayana, Mahabharata and Krishna Lila (i.e. story of lord Krishna).
Sanctum Sanctorum:-
Sanctum Sanctorum is the main chamber of the temple. It rests on a lotus shaped platform and contains the bejeweled idol of Lord Surya. The chamber was plundered by Mahmud Gazni.
Surya Kunda:-
This looks like a step well but bigger in size. This pond in front of the temple is also known as Ram Kunda by locals. This rectangular well measuring 52.6 x 36.6 meter is the first part of the sun temple. There are several platforms and steps are there to reach water level.
Guda Mandap in Modhera Sun Temple:-
Guda Mandap is the main temple which is supported by a lotus-base plinth. Once, this hall used to house the idol of the Sun. The sanctum is designed in such a way the idol got the first glimpse of the Sun at equinoxes. The carved walls also depict the aspects of human life like the vicious circle of birth and death.
The walk from kund to the main temple to Guda Mandap is like transcend journey from death to moksha.
There are four large temple in Suryakund.
Temple of SheshShayee lord Vishnu in the east.
Temple of Shitala Mataji in the South.
Temple of Lord Nataraja in the North.
Temple of Ganpati is by the side of Shitala Mata and further many small temple and idols of Vaishnava religion.
Kirti Toran:-
After bathing in the Suryakund while going up for Darshan of Sun god on the way there are two large Poles. These poles displays the respect and glory won by the state. Hence these poles are named as Kirti – Toran or prestige , Respect and glory Arch.
On further passing the Kirti Toran devotees enter into a court gallery constructed by 52 pillars. These pillars are decorated with incidents of Ramayana and Mahabharata. There are statues of 12 postures of Sun god . Here inside the gallery devotees sing devotional songs and dance. This is connected to main sanctum by a stone path.
The Sun temple is so designed that on the days of equinoxes i.e. 21st March and 21st September, the first rays of sun fall on the idol of Sun in Garbhagriha. Is this not an engineering wonder too then? The main sun temple is on a plinth that is designed like an inverted lotus. Remember lotus is a flower that responds to the sun rays and lives only for the time sun rays are there. On top of lotus petals is a panel carved with Elephants called Gaj-petika. Above these the entire life cycle of a human being is carved; starting right from the time a human being is conceived with an act of intercourse to the death depicted with last rites. There are other erotic figures as well on the exterior as was the norm in the temples of that era.
Deities of 8 directions:-
There are sculptures of people playing various musical instruments. Above these flora / fauna/ life are deities. There are 12 idols of Parvati in her various forms called Dwadash Gauri. There are 12 idols of Sun as if he is all pervading. Some idols of Sun are in Irani Style with Gumboots and a long cap. As per the guide, this is because the sun worship started in Iran. 8 directions of the temple have deities of the 8 directions:
North – Kuber, the lord of wealth
North East – Rudra – a form of Shiva
East – Indra or lord of Rains
South East – Agni or lord of Fire
South – Yama, God of death
South West – Nairiti – a form of Shiva
West – Varun or lord of water
North West – Vayu or Lord of Air.
Plundering:-
It is said that the main idol was made of pure gold and depicted sun sitting on his chariot with 7 horses with his Sarathi Arun driving the chariot. The idol sat on a deep plinth that was again filled with gold coins. Today, all you can see is the deep pit in Garbhagriha that tells the tale of plundering. It is said that the diamonds on the idol could lit the whole temple. All this is oral history and no one knows where the idol is. Some say that when the attacks were made on the temples, some Brahmin families hid the idols with them and saved it. Based on what I read and heard, whereabouts of this idol are not known. There is a closed underground path that potentially links the temple to Patan, the capital city of Solankis.Garbhagriha has a circumambulation path and is attached to an octagonal Guda mandapa. Guda mandapa is embellished with niche images of twelve Aditya’s – showing different aspects of the Sun – probably representing each Solar month.
The Shikhara or the superstructure is missing so the temple now looks flatter than it should be.
Dance Festival:-
The Modhera dance festival takes place every year near the Sun temple, during the month of January. It coincides with the popular Gujarati festival of ‘Uttarayan’ and is celebrated for three days. Organized by the Tourism Corporation of Gujarat, it celebrates the architectural grandeur and rich cultural heritage of the region.
Best Time to Visit:-
Modhera is a quaint village in Gujarat that is well-known for its Sun temple. Though the place can be visited all around the year but the summers can be slightly harsh and the winters, quite pleasant. The best time to visit Modhera is between the months of October and March when the temperature falls in the range of 12 degree Celsius and 27 degree Celsius. This is a great time for sightseeing and other activities. The summer months of April to June are pretty sunny and dry. The temperatures go as high as 41 degree Celsius with minimum temperature being around 20 degree Celsius. In spite of the heat, people do visit the place as there are several discounts. Rains knock on the door of Modhera from July till September. If you love monsoon you can come to Modhera.
How To Reach:-
By Air:-
The nearest airport is Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel airport located at Ahmedabad which is 75 km away from Modhera Sun temple.
By Train:-
Mehsana is the closest rail head which is 26 km away from Sun Temple.
By Road:-
Modhera Sun Temple can be reached from all the major cities of Gujarat. Modhera has located 102 km away from Ahmedabad. Buses, taxis and private vehicles are available from Ahmedabad to reach Modhera.
